YANG: Yet Another Nature Game. A Review of the Cooperative Nature Deck-Building Game Ecosfera

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Ecosfera (Eco sfera as implied by the cover) was a game on Kickstarter in April 2023: See here.

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This is a cooperative deck-builder with a few push-your-luck elements. This is also a nature themed game! Nature is a very hot theme for games right right, so I call this Yet Another Nature Game (YANG). Many nature games are competitive, so this stands out as a cooperative YANG.

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This is a game intended for 1-4 players, ages 8+. The intended time is 45-60 minutes, which is about right, but see more discussion below.

Let’s take a look!

Unboxing and Gameplay

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Ecosfera is a smaller box game: see Coke Can above for scale.

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Ecosfera is mostly a card game, but it also has a lot of punch out tokens: see above.

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This is a deck-builder with three different “currencies” of buying.  Elements buy plants, plants buy animals, and animals buy biomes.  See the offering of elements, plants, and animals above!

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The base currency is the elements: the multi-colored cards above are also multi-labelled cards to avoid color-blind issues.  These elements can only buy plants.

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See two plants above: notice the element symbols on the BOTTOM of the cards. You can only buy a plant if you have the elements (we need two winds to buy the Papever radictum). You can be missing one element and still buy a plant … if so, you get that extra missing element for free into your hand. You’ll also notice the symbols at the TOP of the cards: these are the currency for buying the next level: animals.

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Animals can ONLY be bought if you have two plants with matching symbols on that animal!  Again, the cost to buy animals is on the BOTTOM of the card.   Using the two plants from above, we can buy a Penguin, because we have two of the Tundrus symbol!

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Finally, the animals buy biomes.  If you have two animals sharing some biomes, you can immediately spend them to buy the overlapping biomes!  Using the penguin and the lizard above, we can acquire the Aquaticus biome since the animals share that!

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If you make all biomes, you win!

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Along the way, many things can go wrong: you can get the Disaster cards (see above: the different symbols mean nothing)! These cards clog your deck, preventing you from buying things along the way!

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If you can’t buy anything on your turn (either a plant or animal or biome), you get a Disaster card in your deck. By itself, the Disaster card doesn’t do anything: it clogs your deck mostly.

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But, if you ever get 3 Disasters in your hand (see above) …

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… your turn immediately ends and you get an Extinction Tile! (If you get 4 Disasters, you immediately get 3 Extinction Tiles!)

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If you ever get 7 Extinction Tiles, you lose!

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Along the way, each Player gets some tokens to help them.  The Plus (+) can be spent to pull an extra card, the Star (*) can be spent to refresh a line of cards (to get better buy options), and the Arrow is the most important symbol in the entire game: you can use it to move cards to other players OR to cull cards (ya, but you can’t EVER cull Disaster card).

These are one-time usage, however, you do refresh them every time you have an animal pair that matches a biome in your hand.  (So even if you can’t buy a new biome, you can still refresh your tokens).

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You’ll notice that some of the cards ALSO have these symbols: you can choose to use these symbols from your hand as well! (Only one OR the other)
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To help remind you which cards have been used, the game provides some leaf reminders: see above as we use to remind ourselves that we used the + and can’t use that card again.

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This game is quite lovely to look at: the art and tokens are easy to read, and cards are a very nice linen-finish.  In all my game groups and plays, the players commented on how nice the art on the cards is.   This is a beautiful production.

Rulebook

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The rulebook was okay.  It looks a bit daunting because it’s very thick, but it also have 4 translations in it.  It only take about 9 pages to get the rules across.

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Although the rulebook works fairly well on the chair next to me, and the font is a decent sized, I was slightly annoyed that I had to hold the rulebook open many times! I want my rulebook to lay open on the chair next to:  this ventures into C territory for The Chair Test, but since I can “break the spine” to get the rulebook to stay open, I’ll give this a B- on The Chair Test.

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The set-up and components were fairly well-notated on the first two pages.  This allowed me to jump in fairly quickly, which was nice.

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The rules had some nice pictures showing how the game flows and plays (see above).

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I felt like some of the organization was a little off: they spent precious space showing simple rules, but then failed to elaborate more complex rules in a few places. 

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The rulebook was fine: it taught the game, but sometimes you will have to go hunting for a rule.

I won’t ding this for the lack of an index because it is a pretty simple game overall; it doesn’t need one.

Player Count

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More than any other game I have played in some time, the Player Count matters for this game.  It’s either a slog of playing of cards that play themselves, or a dynamic event! 

Solo Game

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This game does support solo play (see top of page 10): Thank you for following Saunders’ Law and giving us a solo mode. The only real difference is that the Arrow symbol means that you can’t share cards with anyone else (you can still cull), you can only share with yourself and give yourself an extra card.

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See above as I have a solo game set-up!  The solo mode does allow you to learn the game: I have played this game quite a bit solo.

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My first solo game was a slog and I hated the game. What am I missing? I found this thread on BoardGameGeek where someone else had the same experience: What Am I Missing? Armed with that information, I tried again and did a little better.

The most important thing you learn from a few games is that the Arrow symbol is critical.

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The major problem with solo mode is that your deck just builds and builds (see how huge my solo deck is) and many times you feel you have no agency!   You just draw cards and hope you get the cards you need.  You can either do something or not.  That’s it.  The game feels like it plays itself!!!  If you have used all your tokens, well, it’s even less fun.  Right now, the solo game hovers at a 4/10 for me.  (I will revisit this below)

I had enough information to teach my friends AND emphasize the Arrow. Maybe the game works better with more people?

Two Player

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Sam came over and we gave it a a try: I made sure to emphasize the Arrow symbol and that we needed to talk.

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The game went a little better as we tried to be intelligent about the use our symbols. Again, the most important feature is to use Arrow to share cards at the right times.

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The decks still got pretty big (see above), and many turns had nothing happen as we acquired Disaster after Disaster. See below.

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We started to see a little more strategy: maybe it made sense to move a card to my compatriot, maybe it made sense to cull this card.  There was more sharing as we tried to help each other.

In the end, we won, and there was some sharing.  And there was some discussion.  And there was some strategizing.  But there were a whole lot of turns where nothing happened and we just acquired a Disaster.   During those turns, it just felts like the game was playing itself.

In the end, Sam gave the 2-Player game about a 6/10.  I was a little more down on the game after my solo play and I gave it a 5.5/10.    The decks got huge, and there were still a lot of turns where nothing happened, but we saw a glimmer of the sharing and strategy.

3- Player and 4-Player

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We saw, in the first 3-Player game that this game CAN be fun!  As long as you use all the symbols on the cards, and try to use the Arrows to move and cull cards, and communicate and cooperate, the game feels like you have agency!

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The difference between a solo/duo game and a 3 to 4-Player game is the number of opportunities!  More players means more opportunities to share resources smartly!

“I can share this card, but Sara doesn’t have any animals.  AH!  But Andrew does! I’ll share this with him so we can get the last biome!” 

All of a sudden, people are looking around the table for opportunities to share!  People are talking, people are communicating, people are cooperating!  

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The 3 and 4-Player game is fun!  As long as you exploit the shared opportunities, this game can be quite fun!  My friends all had fun and wanted to play again.  

I mentioned the problems with  solo and duo play, and my friends said “There’s just more opportunities to be smart with more players!”

Be aware, if you are looking for a game that is good as a multiplayer solo game, this isn’t the game for you!  If you play Ecosfera like multiplayer solitaire (no one really works together and everyone just plays by themselves), Ecosfera will have all the problems of the solo game … and it won’t be fun.  In order to truly enjoy this game, you need 3 or 4 players with a group that will engage with each other! 

You need to have opportunities to share.  You also need to strategize to use those opportunities well.  There’s a lot more of this in the 3 and 4-player game.

Conclusion

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If you are looking for a solo game, I can’t recommend this game: although the solo game is good enough to teach the game, it leaves a bad taste in the mouth that this game plays itself.  It’s about 4.5/10 at a solo play because it just barely works.

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Even a 2-Player game isn’t quite right: there’s not enough quite opportunities for intelligent sharing; the game still feels like it’s playing itself too much of the time.  It’s better at 2-Player than solo (maybe a 5.5 or 6/10), but I still can’t recommend it.

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It’s not until you get to 3 or 4 players together that this game opens up and becomes fun!  There are so many more opportunities to work together and strategize together as a group when you have 3 or 4 players!!!   In that configuration, I can recommend this game, as can my friends: they have suggested we play again! This is a 6.5 or 7.0/10 for 3 to 4 players.  Just make sure you play with a dynamic group!

I don’t think we’ve ever had a game that is so player count dependent! If you want a solo game or something to play with your partner, I can’t recommend this game.  If you want a game that plays multiplayer solitaire with little interaction, again, I can’t recommend this game.   I think this game only works with 3 to 4 players with a dynamic group … and then it’s fun.

The Nature theme is fairly thematic, the art is pretty, and the game is gorgeous …. but that will only get you so far: Be aware of when this game works and when it doesn’t before you pick it up.

Project PEGASUS: A Campaign for Marvel United

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The Project PEGASUS series was one of my favorite comic series when I was a kid. It took place in Marvel Two-In-One Issues 42, 43, and 53-58 back in 1978 and 1979. There are several reasons I liked this story: it featured the Thing and a really interesting cast of characters, including Quasar and Man-Thing! Plus, it’s one of the few times you see the art of John Byrne and George Perez together.

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Once Season 3 of Marvel United arrived, I saw that Project PEGASUS was indeed a Location from the Multiverse base set: see above (we reviewed the base Multiverse set here)!

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We also got a chance to play some of the campaigns that came from the Marvel United Campaign Decks!   See last week as we reviewed some of these experiences!

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See all the great series of Marvel Comics!  But where’s the campaign for Project PEGASUS?

Never mind, I’ll do it myself.

The Road To Development

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Over the past month, I have read and re-read the Project PEGASUS series (a burden of joy) to get a sense of what its campaign might look like.  See above as I have taken out most of the content I need!

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After coming up with a general outline of what the Villains, Heroes, and Games should be, I started to put something together!  See above for written notes on the first draft of this campaign.

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I’ve have also had some play testing from my friends, as well as many many many solo games (with 2, 3, and 4 Heroes).

In the end, I am very proud of the Campaign I came up with: it follows the story of Project PEGASUS pretty well and adds some new ideas to Marvel United.

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Over the last few weeks, the campaign has evolved quite a bit: I have some added some new Villains and Heroes for the final cut. 

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Some of the ideas in the Project PEGASUS campaign are a little outside the box, because even though Season 3 made this all possible, I will still missing some pieces (Heroes/Villains/etc) to make the campaign complete.  So, I had to improvise using what I had. 

I am very proud of what I did for Games 1 and 5, and especially Game 2.  But be aware that those games are a little different.

What Do I Need?

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Like all of the campaigns, The Project PEGASUS campaign needs a lot of pieces stolen from all parts of Marvel United. See the complete list below.

• Base Marvel United
• Spider-Geddon Marvel United
• Multiverse Marvel United
• Season 1 Stretch Goals
• Season 3 Stretch Goals
• Fantastic Four
• World War Hulk
• Annihilation
• Civil War
• Enter The Spider-Verse
• War of Kings

Current State

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The current draft of the campaign is at version 1.0.1.  I fully expect there to be revisions made as me and others playtest it. 
UPDATE: We are now at 1.1.0: we had some explanation clean-up and a few balance adjustments to Game 1!
Oct 20th, 2024 UPDATE: Updated to 1.2.0: Added explanation of how to play solo, updated Game 2 with better descriptions and a rules fix/clarification.

Feel free to download the PDF below and give it a try!!!   If there is interest, I can try making the form factor more like cards (with Rules cards and Event cards), but right now the Events are presented alongside the Games of interest in the PDF document below.

 If you have any feedback (too easy, too hard, spelling problems, unclear rules), please email us at returnfromsubroutine @ gmail.com

We’d love to hear from you!  How did it go?

 

Campaign Decks for Marvel United: How Much Story Do They Add?

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The Campaign Decks were part of the Multiverse Marvel United Absorption Expansion Explosion (where we received so much new context for Marvel United)! !

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The Campaign Decks give you just that: campaigns you can play through using the Marvel United system.

Let’s take a look!

Unboxing and Gameplay

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This is a surprisingly small box of cards: see Coke Can above for scale.

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The game comes with a very small pamphlet (sigh, I am not a fan of pamphlets) and 114 cards for 8 campaigns.

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Each campaign is 8 to 23 cards each, with Age of Ultron and Maximum Carnage being 8 cards, X-Cutioner’s Song and World War Hulk being 13 cards,  War Of Kings and Dark Phoenix Saga being 16 cards,  Avengers vs X-Men being 17 cards, and The Age of Apocalypse being a whopping 23 cards!

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Each campaign has two types of cards: Campaign Set-Up and Rule cards (top cards: each game in a campaign is defined by one of these) and Campaign Event cards (bottom cards: which are brought out during certain points of the campaign).

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The front of the Campaign Set-Up and Rules card define the parameters of each encounter: the Villain you will fight (Emma Frost above), the Heroes you can operate (Prof. X, Storm, Wolverine, Colossus above), and special set-up or rules (split the start-up, must start with HANGAR BAY, etc.). See above.

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The back side of the Campaign Set-Up and Rules defines special rules for that scenario, as well as  triggers to bring out Event cards: see above.  Warning: minor spoiler below!!

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Events are related to the scenario you are fighting: see as Event 01 brings some rules into play once you rescue Kitty Pride.  Many times, Events just add Heroes to your roster: this is important, as it gives you more choices of Heroes to play when you fight (and some Heroes are better in certain scenarios).

Basically, these cards control the progression of games.

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Generally, you need almost all of the Marvel United content to play these Campaigns.  The back of the pamphlet tells you ALL the base games/expansions you need to play through!

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See how The Dark Phoenix Saga, Age of Ultron, and Maximum Carnage all require a whole bunch of expansions! And a very disparate set of expansion as well!

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These expansion all look really cool … but how do they play?

Campaign Flavors

Not all campaigns are created alike.

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The World War Hulk campaign requires players to play in the one-vs-many mode known as Super Villain Mode in the game: this is definitely not solo or full cooperative!

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The Maximum Carnage campaign requires the players to do The Carnage Challenge (at least for games 2 and 3).

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The War of Kings requires team vs. team mode, at least for the first game, then the game goes back to being solo and/or cooperative for games 2, 3, and 4.

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The Avengers vs X-Men is mostly Super Villain Mode (one-vs.-many), and game 1 is a special PVP mode: Clash of Heroes.

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The rest of the decks (Age of Apocalypse, Age of Ultron, X-Cutioner’s Song, and Dark Phoenix Saga) can all be played solo or cooperatively.

We’ll only be looking at those decks you can play solo or cooperatively today.  Over about 2 weeks, we were able to get through a few campaigns.  Let’s take a look!

Campaigns and Spoilers?

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So, to talk about the campaigns, we have to talk about some of the stuff that happens.  However, that could mean spoilers.  We have done two full playthroughs in this review: decide if you want to read them or just jump ahead to the Conclusion!

The first campaign is the Age of Ultron story.  There are some very minor spoilers in this section (just below), but if you want to go in the game without knowing anything, skip to the Conclusion!

The second campaign is the Dark Phoenix Saga. There are some pretty significant spoilers in that playthrough, both in terms of reveals and stories!   If you know X-Men #131-137, the story won’t have have any spoilers, but some of the events/happenings may still be spoilers.  Since this playthrough has Major Spoilers, we’ve moved this section ALL THE WAY TO THE END to the Appendix section.  Feel free to read it if you want more of a feel what the Campaigns look like, and you don’t care about Major Spoilers

You have been warned. 

Age Of Ultron Campaign: Minor Spoilers Ahead

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The Age Of Ultron campaign is 3 to 4 games long (depending on how well you do). This is probably the best campaign to start with.  (There a few minor spoiler ahead: skip ahead to the Conclusion if you want to avoid any spoilers).

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Basically, you fight Ultron a LOT, and he gets stronger and stronger as you play!

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Each game will usually have a different set of Heroes you can play: I started the campaign with Wolverine and Iron Man, but was told (by the Campaign Set-Up and Rules card) that I had to use some different Heroes for Game 2.  I liked that I had to change Heroes (it kept the game interesting), as I had to try to pick a good set of Heroes to play together.

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Winning or losing a game usually gets you an event: so far, many good events I see add a new Hero to the Campaign Roster (see above as Spider-Man joins the roster as a new Hero I can play!)

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My second game used Emma Frost and Black Widow together.  Wow, were they good together!  Black Widow‘s predictive power made a huge difference!  They took out Ultron!

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Finally, I used Captain America and Iron Man for my Game 3!  They (barely) kept Ultron under control …

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Basically, by (barely) defeating Ultron in game 3, I was able to avoid a final Game 4 (which gives a few more chances to defeat Ultron).

There wasn’t a lot of story per se in this campaign, as my Heroes were just doing the best they could in each Game.  It was, however, very thematic to have Ultron get better and better and better in each game! Really, he was quite tough by the time Cap and Iron Man took him on. I probably should have lost (and had to play Game 4).

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It was fun to play the Age of Ultron campaign, Ultron had an interesting progression, but there really wasn’t any story. 

Conclusion

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In the end, the Campaign Decks reminded me a lot of Set A Watch: Doomed Run (see our review here).   Why is that?  Each particular game of Set A Watch: Doomed Run is thematic, but the story tying them together is very very loose: it’s so loose you can drop players in and out of the campaign as you play!  And I think that’s true here as well! Each Campaign game is thematic and fun, but it doesn’t really twist and turn very much; each Campaign is fairly linear.  If you were looking for a thematic story with lots twists and turns to entertain you, the Campaign Decks aren’t really that.

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There’s a few “twists” I saw, but in general, I think the purpose of the Marvel United Campaign Decks is an excuse to relive your favorite comics and an excuse to play through the ridiculous amount of Marvel United content.  There’s a lot of theme, especially if you know the stories involved, but the Campaign Decks don’t present a deep, dark, complex adventures: they are just an excuse to play Marvel United and relive your favorite comics!  As long as you know what the Campaign Decks are, they might be right up your alley.

Just be aware HOW MUCH Marvel United Content you must have in order to play these!

Appendix: Dark Phoenix Saga Campaign: Major Spoilers!!

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NOTE: There are MAJOR SPOILERS ahead!  Skip this Appendix if you don’t want any spoilers!!

The Dark Phoenix Saga campaign is a little longer at five games.  Honestly, it will probably be more: you will almost certainly lose a few games, because the game gets hard! I lost two games along the way, but was able to come to a successful conclusion (so six games total).

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I was really looking forward the Dark Phoenix Saga: when Jean Grey fights for her life in X-Men #137, it was a very powerful and moving story. Could the Campaign capture some of this?

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Well, the Dark Phoenix Saga starts Game 1 with Emma Frost and Kitty Pryde (ShadowCat): see set-up above! This is reminiscent of issue X-Men #131 where Kitty Pryde wanders the Hellfire club trying save her compatriots … see below.

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In this Game 1, I had Wolverine and Professor X take on Emma Frost.  Remember, you have choices of which heroes you can use!  Part of the fun of the campaign is trying to find the best heroes…

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Well, it turns out I played my first game so very wrong (I missed some of the threat effects and special rules about accelerating the Master Plans, and didn’t realize I was supposed to find Kitty), so I restarted halfway through.  

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Wolverine and Professor X were able to find Kitty and take out Emma Frost.

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This led to Game 2:

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Game 2’s villain is Sebastian Shaw: a Hellfire club member!  We are firmly in issues #131-#137 of the X-Men now!  It feels like we are in X-Men #132 fighting Shaw!

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We were required to play Jean Grey and Cyclops: definitely very thematic!

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And why isn’t Jean Grey called Marvel Girl like in the comic … but I digress … I mean, her secret identify is her hero name?  No, she should be Marvel Girl (Jean Grey).

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Shaw was rough: I ran out of cards (losing the game) and had to flip Event 5.  To be fair, this loss feels very thematic, as Sebastian Shaw really trounced the X-Men in this particular series of comics!!

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Too late!  But, at least I had Nightcrawler on my Roster now …

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The next game up (Game 3) had us fight the villain Mastermind: he’s the evil creature trying to take over Jean Grey‘s mind!

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We get to choose heroes in this Game!  If you look carefully at the Threats, you realize you want to try to keep the Heroes together (bad things happen to lone heroes).  Nightcrawler pretty much HAS to teleport every turn (the black text on his cards means you are forced to do that), so it would be easy to keep the Heroes together.  When the Heroes WOULD take damage, Kitty was able to phase and mitigate that!!  This was a great combination of Heroes for this game.  And it felt thematic: Kitty’s phasing kept them safe, and Nightcrawler’s teleportation kept them together.

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This was thematic from the character’s perspective.  The story not as much (I should have used Wolverine: Wolverine fights alone!)

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Then Jean Grey becomes Dark Phoenix.  Oof!!!!  There’s some really thematic stuff that happens in this part of the game, but I don’t want to give away too much.

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Dark Phoenix was one of the hardest battles I have ever had.  

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I started with Kitty and Cyclops, but after losing to Dark Phoenix once,  I had to “remove Kitty” from play.  I could only keep playing as long as I had 4 Heroes in my Roster.

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See above as Dark Phoenix easily takes out Cyclops and Kitty.

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I get to try again: For my next trial against Dark Phoenix, I brought out Nightcrawler  (and you are required to keep Cyclops).

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I was able to eke out a win, but just barely.

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Dark Phoenix’s Master Plan cards are just rough!

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I fully expected to need 3 or more games to beat Dark Phoenix.  I mean, she’s Dark Phoenix.

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Even though the X-Men were able to defeat Dark Phoenix, … things happened while Jean Grey was Dark Phoenix. Like, she ate a sun and destroyed a world, so she must stand trial. 

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And Gladiator is the one to deal with her. 

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Jean Grey must fight, since she’s fighting for her own life.  The choice of Wolverine is important here: we know from playing Gladiator from the War Of Kings, it’s important to always have a full hand!  Since Wolverine has his healing factor, he is an exceptional character to play against Gladiator.

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In the end, Wolverine and Jean Grey were able to defeat Gladiator.  And win the campaign!

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Although, technically, Jean Grey doesn’t survive … they don’t tell you that … see above …

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I know the Dark Phoenix story and wow, this felt incredibly thematic!   From how hard Dark Phoenix herself is, to some events in the deck, the Dark Phoenix Saga Campaign Deck was very thematic.  To be fair, the Campaign Deck didn’t “tell a story”, but it sure reminded me of one of my favorite X-Men stories of all time. 

Run Run Run! See Cats Run! Run Cats Run! A Review of Run Run Run!

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Run Run Run! is a cooperative game from Kickstarter: it was up on Kickstarter in February 2024 (with several other games) promising delivery in May 2024. It actually delivered in late August 2024, so it was about 3 months late. Eh, that’s pretty good for Kickstarters.

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With a name like Run Run Run!, this sounds like it should be a real-time cooperative game, but it’s mostly cooperative tile-laying game. See our Top 10 Cooperative Tile-Laying Games for more discussion of the tile-laying genre.  Run Run Run! is also a little bit of a boss-battler game.

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This is a light-weight cooperative game for 1-4 players taking about 30 minutes: the game time listed on the box seems accurate enough.

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So, this game was part of an “import Kickstarter” where they found games from around the world and imported them to the USA.  Apparently, this is an older game by Bruno Cathala and Antony Perone.  BoardGameGeek lists the game as a 2021 game, although for some of us here in USA, this is a brand new game (including me).  This is the 2nd Edition of the game, so I guess it’s new in that respect.

Let’s take a look!

Unboxing and Gameplay

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This is a game with a LOT of tiles: more than half the box was filled with punch outs. The first 30 minutes of my unboxing was just punching out all the tiles and other components! We did say this was a cooperative tile-laying game!

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Players assume the roles of one of four explorer cats (Catventurers to use the nomenclature of the game)! See above! Each explorer cat has a special power that is invoked when they roll a ‘?’ on the dice …

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This is also a cooperative boss-battler game: you will face one of the three Final Boss Mummy’s above! To win, you have to take out the Final Boss before it makes it back to the Relic room!

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Along the way, lesser Mummies will be summoned to slow you down. If any of the Mummies ever make it to the room with the Relics of the Pharaoh, all players instantly lose! You need to keep all Mummies OUT of the that room!!

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Players lay out tiles, one at a time, trying to build a maze out.

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To unlock the Final Boss, you have to build three tiles adjacent to each other with different symbols!  And you have to do this three times (or more)!!  See above!  This is the only way to unlock the Final Boss, but every time you do that build, you invoke a “trap”!  See above as the Mummy  summon triggers a “trap” that gives the Final Boss 5 more hit points!

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Torches are an important part of the game: you need to put torches in rooms to see!  You start with 5 collective torches, and if you can’t place a torch, you get closer to summoning a Mummy!

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At the start of the Mummies’ turn, you roll a die (or  more…)! If you roll the monster symbol (see above), you have to move all Mummies closer to the Relic Room AND you also come closer to summoning a new Mummy!

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Every time you roll a monster, you have to put a heart on the current top Mummy tomb!

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If a mummy get 5 hearts, it has been summoned the Mummy and that Mummy goes on the board! Where on the board? Player’s decide!

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Usually you put the mummy as far away from the Relic Room as possible (see above), or right next to a Catventurer so they can fight it!

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Mummies are defeated by rolling dice!  See the attack dice above!  Some symbols give you a successful Attack: note above we do 4 damage to a Mummy with 7 hit points! But since we have have the x2 token, we do all 8 damage and take it out in one shot!

How do we get dice?

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Every exit on a tile you discard give you an attack die!  For example, to get all 6 attack die above, we can discard the one tile with all 6 exits to get all 6 dice (6 is the max).

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How did we get the x2 token?  Whenever we explore a Sarcophagus room (with the little golden coffin, see above), we get a Sarcophagus token … one of which may be a 2x!  See above!

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Oh yes, if we ever run out of torches, we can get new ones in a couple of ways. One: if we build three rooms adjacent (see above) the same symbol, we immediately get 5 torches!

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There’s also a cooperate action which can give more torches (or tiles if needed). See above.

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If we can take out the Final Boss before he reaches the Relic Room, we win! See above as we LOSE as the Mummy enters the Relic Room!

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The production for this game is pretty great with tons of thick cardboard tokens! The art is super cute and the game looks like a high quality, but cute, production!

Oh, and this is a cooperative cat game! It may not be clear at first, but we are all cats working together!

Rulebook

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The rulebook is good.

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The rulebook gets an almost perfect score on the Chair Test with an A!  See above as it fits perfectly on the chair next to me, it stays open, it has readable fonts, and it has good pictures!  This would probably get an A+ on the Chair Test if the fonts were just a little bit bigger.  

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The Components page is great: it shows all the components with annotations. See above.

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The set-up pages are perfect: the entire set-up is pictured and each step is labelled with a relevant number!  I can leave this open, and set-up the entire game from these two pages!

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The rest of the rulebook is pretty good.

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My only real complaint is that they didn’t show/explain all the possible Trap tokens that can come out. I had to “guess” what they meant.   It was mostly intuitive, but not always.

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The last page of the rulebook is useful: this is where I wish they would listed all the trap and Sarcophagus tokens with more description. Still, at least the back of the rules was useful.

There’s no index, but this is a 30 minute game, so I don’t think it needs it.

In general, this is a good rulebook.

Solo Play

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 This has a solo mode! (Congratulations on following Saunders’ Law!).  So, there’s a very small section describing the Solo Mode on the very last page of the rulebook.  See above.  The solo game basically plays true solo: you play one Catventurer (the Cat Explorer) and play the game as-is!  The only rule that needs some “slight” expansion is the COOPERATE action: you can still play the COOPERATE action, but only the solo cat gets the rewards!  This is great!  No real changes: just play the game as-is!

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My first game was a win, as I killed the final Mummy on his way to the end! See above!

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My initial tile selection wasn’t great (as only one room has more than one exit), but I soon got a lot more branching rooms.   I also had a lot of Sarcophagus rooms …

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Those Sarcophagus rooms enabled me to get some great tokens at the start of the game!  I saved those 2x tokens for the end game, because I knew how hard the final Mummy would be!

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I played my first game very well: I kept the Mummy’s under control and I had plenty of tiles going into the final battle, and I was able to build enough space so that the Mummies were far enough back that I could take them out!

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My second game was a close loss: I made the mistake of not having enough of the temple built!  

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I was able to knock the Mummy down to 5 hit points, but he just moved too fast!  He made it to the Relic Room and I lost! See above!

I admit my final loss was depressing because I rolled so poorly; not on the Attack dice but on the Mummy movement!  It’s basically a 50% chance that the Mummy will move every turn, and he moved EVERY TURN after he came out!  The Mummy screamed to the exit and I lost!

Cooperative Play

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Cooperative play went pretty well.

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There was shared workload setting up and playing.  There are enough components in the game (torches, tiles, 5x torch, sarcophagus tokens, mummies, player tokens, etc) that it was nice to share the workload of taking care of the tokens.

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We were able to take out the final mummy!

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Basically, after he came out, were were able to all pounce on him and do as much damage as we could!

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The cooperation in this game was interesting.   We didn’t “love” that you couldn’t talk about the tiles you have, but you were allowed to “point” to to where you were going to build, and that seemed enough to allow us to all move forward.  There was never any “fine-grained” cooperation (“I’ll build this tile, you build this tile”) as we played … because there can’t be!   The cooperation was more “coarse-grained” in that each cat did their own thing on the way to helping the party:  “I’ll take out the light mummy if you can just build!  Oh! I need help with this!”  The game was kind-of multiplayer solitaire with many moments of high-level cooperation.

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If you don’t like cooperative games because of Alpha Player Syndrome (because the Alpha Player tells everyone what to do), then Run Run Run! is game that keeps the Alpha Player at bay pretty well. Because you can’t do any fine-grain cooperation with tiles, the group decides more of the high-level actions together! Everyone stays involved on their turn by choosing the tile to play, but everyone stays involved with the group as they makes high-level decisions together.

With some retrospective, I liked the amount of cooperation the game elicited, even if we did have some communication restrictions.

Communications Restrictions

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My groups don’t tend to like communications restrictions because we get together to play, talk, and strategize together!  We are friends and we want to talk to each other!   Some games with communications restrictions work, and some don’t!  And it’s a razor’s edge of difference.

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Run Run Run! works mainly because it doesn’t stop all communications: you can’t really show your tiles and talk about them precisely.  The rule is (from page 2):

“Also, even though you may openly discuss your intentions, you may not show the tiles from your hand to the other players, nor describe them precisely. You may, however, point a finger to a specific Room, without saying anything…”

The rule is still imprecise (“What does it mean I can’t describe them precisely? Can I tell you it’s a symbol?“), but I think the intent seems to be don’t tell/show others your hand.  Other than that, talk as much as you want!  That seems to work!

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Compare this against the Communications Restrictions in Defenders of the Wild (see our review here):

“At the start of each round, all players must cease communication and maintain silence while choosing a defender card from their hand to play…”

The restriction is much more draconian, and squanders an opportunity to make a multi-player solitaire game even more cooperative!

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What’s the difference?  In Run Run Run!, you simply can’t share your tiles, but in Defenders of the Wild, you can’t talk at all (for that phase)!!  I think this very minor difference makes a world of difference: I liked playing and talking and cooperating in Run Run Run!, and I am annoyed in Defenders of the Wild by the restriction.  (I still don’t think the communications restriction rules work at all in Defenders of the Wild, but maybe the rule should have been simply been “You can’t show/discuss your Defenders“).

It’s a fine line, but the Communications Restriction works in Run Run Run!, but not in Defenders of the Wild.

Try It Out

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Since this game has communication restrictions, one of the things you are NOT allowed to do it show your tiles to any other person.  The problem is, sometimes you want to “try stuff out!” See above as we have a bunch of tiles we want to play with and see what we can do!

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In our review of Race To The Raft (another cooperative cat game with tile-laying), we saw the same problem!  You aren’t allowed to share what you have in your hand in Race To The Raft either, and many times you want to “try” stuff out! 

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In Race To The Raft, we developed the house rule “look away while I try stuff” so we didn’t break the spirit of the game!  That way, you can still try stuff out, while preserving the confidentiality of the tiles.   We ended up doing something like this in Run Run Run!

It’s a shame: neither Run Run Run! nor Race To The Raft nor many of the cooperative tile games games on our Top 10 Cooperative Tile-Laying/Tile-Placement Games have any acknowledgement of this very human phenomenon: People want to try stuff out!  Please, if you make a cooperative tile-laying game, please have some sort of rule for addressing this issue:

“If you wish to try out some tile layout ideas on your turn, please ask others to look away so you don’t overshare your tiles!”

Otherwise, you make people dislike your game because no one feels like they can “play with” and/or “try stuff”! Or people come up with a house rule like the one above anyways.  

Acrylic Standees

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I am a huge fan of acrylic standees!  I loved them in Tokyo Sidekick (see review here) and Kinfire Chronicles (see review here) and Weirdwood Manor (see review here)! So, when this Kickstarter offered a deluxe side of Acrylic Standees, I was in!

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This is a small box full of replacements for the wood standees that come with the game.

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It’s a small box (it turns out, you can fit that box into the final game box with some creative packing).

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See above the the standees!

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They are pretty nice! See above!

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Unfortunately, I had two that were broken.  I think they can be fixed with a little glue, but it was still a bummer. (They had fallen out if their standees, and they really didn’t fit back in).

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My friends and I did a comparison of the Acrylic Standees to the wood meeples: see above and below.

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Which do you prefer?

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In the end … both me and friends preferred the COLORED wooden meeples.  Whaaaattttt???? It’s not that the acrylic standees weren’t gorgeous, but the wooden ones were (1) more HEFTY and  (2) we could distinguish the colors easily from the wooden standees!  The wooden meeples made the game easier to play.

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In our review of Weirdwood Manor, we also loved the Acrylic Standees!  See above!  One of the major differences here as that Weirdwood Manor standees are color-coded ON THE BASE!  See above!  This color-coded base makes it that much easier to distinguish the standees across the table!  I think if Run Run Run! had added color to bases,  that would have made them that much better!

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In the end, my friends preferred the wooden meeples.  And I think I do too.  

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A good compromise might be to mix them: use the wooden meeples for the characters (so you can see each player’s color very easily) and then use the acrylic standees for the mummies!  That way, you get a nice differentiation on the board between the good guys and the bad guys!

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But, you really don’t have to get the Acrylic Standees; the wooden meeples that come the game are very very very good.  

What I Liked

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One: This Is A Little game! This is a fun little cooperative game that’s only 30 minutes.

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Two: Wooden Standees: The wooden standees that come with the game are much better than you think; it is nice that you have the option for Acrylic standees, but you don’t need them.

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Three: High Quality: The components are pretty high-quality, from thick cardboard tiles, wooden standees, and thick readable tokens.

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Four: Limitations Okay: I generally don’t like Communications Limitations in my cooperative games, as they tend to suppress the reason I get together with my friends: to talk!   In this game, the restriction on NOT sharing your tiles didn’t seem to get in the way of us still communicating: we still made plans as a group and had a good time.

What I Didn’t Like

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One: Acrylic Standees: I am slightly annoyed that the Acrylic Standees weren’t better: some of mine were broken, and they really needed colored bases to help distinguish them on the board.   They are still gorgeous, but not as “mind-blowing” as I had hoped.

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Two: Random. The game is pretty random; it all depends on what you roll on the monster dice and what tiles you draw!!!   

Maybe you get terrible starting tiles!! I think there needs to be a Mulligan House Rule at the start of the game where you can redraw your tiles).   

Also, the monster dice gets rolled every turn and there’s a 50-50 chance (greater with more dice) that something bad will happen.   I lost my last solo game because the monster moved EVERY SINGLE TURN when I rolled badly 5 turns in a row!  I simply couldn’t stop him and there’s no dice mitigation for that!

Reactions

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Rich: “I generally liked it.  As I look reflect back on it, I liked it a little better cooperatively than solo. Even though I generally don’t like communications limits, we still strategized as a group and were able to get stuff done, while still having agency on our own turns.  The randomness of the game is a little much (as dice and tile draws control the fate of the party), but since it’s only 30 minute game, it’s not a big deal if you get wrecked.  It’s probably a 6.5/10 for solo, 7/10 for cooperative”

Andrew: “5.5 or 6? It was pretty good. I like cat games.”

Teresa: “6 or 7, it was pretty fun.”

Conclusion

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Run Run Run! is a light cooperative tile-playing game which just so happens to be a boss battler.  The game seems to unfold as multi-player solitaire, as each player cannot share what tiles they have.  But, a higher level cooperation seems to emerge as players take on high-level roles as they play (“You kill the mummy, I’ll build out!“)  If you are looking for a game with mechanisms that tend to suppress Alpha Player Syndrome without losing too much cooperation, Run Run Run! seems to strike a good balance of being cooperative but still giving each player some agency.

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There is some randomness in the game, as it really depends what you roll and draw!  Luckily, this is only a 30 minute game, so even if you get wrecked, it’s a short game.

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I would recommend Run Run Run! if you like the theme and are looking for a light cooperative tile-laying game … with cats!! I am very sad that I can’t recommend the Arcylic Standees: all of my friends (and myself) preferred the wooden meeples that come with the game.  

Run Run Run! would probably make my Top 10 Cooperative Tile-Laying/Tile-Placement Games, just not near the top of the list.

Cooperative Hacking: A Review of Hacktivity

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Hacktivity was a game on Kickstarter back in June 2022: see link here.   This is a cooperative hand management game for 1-4 players.  It originally promised delivery in February 2023, but didn’t deliver to my house until late April 2024: this makes it over a year late!  

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I was originally a little concerned about this game because at some point there was a Kickstarter update saying they lost their manufacturer! I was worried that this meant we might never see the game, but the Hacktivity people persevered and did deliver final copy! I was actually quite impressed with their positive attitude and communication during the Kickstarter! I’ve had a number of Kickstarters recently with poor communication and it was nice to see someone owning every step of the process!

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Let’s take a look!

Unboxing and Gameplay

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This is a fairly standard sized box (“about” the size of  a Ticket to Ride sized box): see Coke can above for perspective.

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In this game, each player takes on the role of a special hacker. See the four decks above.

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Each hacker has their own board as well: see the boards above.

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Each hacker’s deck is different and has a different emphasis or/and special powers.  See two such decks above.

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The players are interacting with a board (see above) with three separate regions. Notice how nice the plastic components  of each region are! 

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This is a game about managing cards.  The purple cards are the virus cards that have bad effects … we’ll dub these the “bad news” cards.  The blue cards are the player cards that keep the bad news (the viruses) under control.  We’ll call the blue cards the “good news” cards. See above.

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The leftmost board (yellow) keeps track of activity: you move the leftmost yellow cube up as a “bad news” as the games plays.  If all yellow cubes make it to the top (see above), players lose!  

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The middle board (blue) is a place where you can “isolate” viruses that come out.  This isolation defers their effects and makes you deal with them later.

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The right-most red board keeps track of “the strange bug”: this is usually what you are trying to keep under control.  In the first game, you need to keep the “strange bug” in the white area to win.

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In order to win, players (usually) need to make it through all of the bad news cards (purple cards) and all of their own cards (blue) without losing! See above, a winning game!  All bad news (purple cards) are in the discard! And “the strange bug” was kept under control in the white zone!

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What’s interesting about this game is that every turn presents a lot of choices!  The first choice: how many bad news (purple) cards do you take and how many good news (your character cards) do you take?  See above as we choose two good news (ArTeMis) and one bad news (A1).  You have to work your way all the way through both decks eventually, so you can’t always take more good than bad! You have to balance that out!

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Once everyone chooses their cards, everybody flips and has to deal with their cards!

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Every card offers one of two choices.  For the bad news card above, you can choose the top or bottom: either isolate the virus on the blue board (notice the blue circle on the TOP CHOICE) with hope to destroy it later OR you can destroy it immediately, but pay the full cost on the bottom of the card.

But it’s a choice.

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The good news cards (your player cards) are also a choice: the top choice is usually a lesser choice, but with no side effects.  The bottom choice is usually more powerful, but with a bad side effect! On the card above, the upper choice is an attack of 2 on an isolated virus … but no side effect.  The bottom choice is a more powerful attack of 3, but having the side effect of raising the activity (the yellow board).  

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Players continue to play until they meet the winning conditions!  Usually, this means playing though all decks (bad news and good news decks) and keeping “the strange bug” under control!

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Given that the Kickstarter had to switch manufacturers halfway through, the game has really nice components!  My only major complaint is that I wish the cards were linen-finished: you do handle the cards a lot as you play.  But I liked the art and three-part board works well.

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Rulebook

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The rulebook is two-sided: one part is in French and the other in English! It’s much less daunting when you know it’s only 12 pages (with the other 12 pages being the French rules).

The game does pretty well on The Chair Test: The rulebook fits on the chair next to me pretty well.  The rulebook is a little bigger than I wanted, but it still stays open.  The font is a little thin and a little small, so it’s a little harder to read than it should, but it still works: this is about a B+ on The Chair Test.

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The components are well-labelled. See above.

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The Set-up (above) is pretty well documented: this set-up spans two opposite pages, so it’s easy to set-up by just leaving the rulebook open.

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The rules are generally pretty good and well notated.

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The biggest flaw is that there is no index (boo), but the last page of the book has a nice list of symbols.

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I was happy with this rulebook.  This rulebook was obviously a translation, but there were only a few places where that was readily apparent.

Solo Play

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So, the game does have a nice solo mode (thanks for following Saunders’ Law)! 

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The solo game is NOT playing two characters: basically, you combine the decks of two characters (see above as I play BLASSST!!! and ArTeMis!) and just play that one deck (setting up the rest of the game as if it were a 2-Player game).  I was worried about this solo mode at first … “Is this really different from the cooperative mode?”   And it’s really not.  You just have more cards to play through.   I am surprised I like this solo mode: I usually prefer playing two separate characters with two positions (see Leviathan Wilds from a few weeks ago), but this combined-deck solo-mode worked for me.  

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So, the solo game combines two decks and has the solo player become a “cyborg” of those characters (I am taking artistic license here).  See above.

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Interestingly, I played my first solo game when I got the game a while ago, but it took a while to interest my friends!  So I had to remind myself how to play with a few more solo games right before I taught them how to play.  I am happy to say that I enjoyed the solo mode more the more I played it.  It’s only a 40-60 minute game! It moves quickly!  And it was easy to remember how to set-up and play.

I liked Hacktivity solo and I liked the solo mode that came with it.

Cooperative Mode

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The cooperative mode was easy to teach.  The basic flow of the game is pretty simple once you get the idea.  

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I think the least favorite aspect of the cooperative game were the limits on communication.  Strictly speaking, you can’t say much about your hand: you can sort of hint about how much damage you can inflict,  and you can hint at stuff.   As we played, we kind of ended-up slowly moving around this restriction … because it wasn’t fun!  We play cooperative game because we want to talk and interact with our friends: we usually dislike cooperative games with limits on communication. 

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There are a lot of little icons in this game as well: that took a little to get our heads around, and the rulebook had to be passed around a little (see above).  After a while, the icons took hold and we could just play: it didn’t take too long (and the little player aid cards helped a lot).

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In general, the cooperative game went pretty well, but not great.  The real issue was the limit on communication.  And we get it: sometimes you need that restriction to keep the Alpha Player in check … but we ended up just going around the communication restrictions.

What I Liked

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The color-coding scheme worked very well.  The blue section of the board … gets affected by the blue markers.  The yellow part of the board … is affected by the yellow icons.  This was very clear and very well done.  This color coordination really helped move the game forwards, as it appealed to your intuition (“this color goes here”).

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The order in which you resolve your good news and bad news cards is players’ choice:  You can even intersperse your card resolutions between players!  You can do good news first, then bad news, or all at once!  It’s players’ choice!! This is fine-grained Player Selected Turn Order at its finest!!  This is where the cooperation shined (shone?) most in this game!  As a group, we had to figure out the order to resolve cards, and we felt clever when we could avoid certain bad news effects by playing these certain orders!  I really really liked how they used Player Selected Turn Order in Hacktivity! It really made the game feel that much more cooperative.

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Every card is a choice!  This is great! Every single cards has to be resolved, and you have a choice of whether to take the top or bottom option!  

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The game is easy to teach and play quickly. And it’s a pretty quick game at 40-60 minutes. 

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We didn’t get into it too much, but there is a campaign here if you want to pursue it.

What I Didn’t Like

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This is more of a missed opportunity than a dislke: the backs of the bad news card don’t mean anything (unless it’s a yellow activity card, which happens just a few times). See the A1 and A2 above? They mean nothing useful for gameplay: they only denote which player count decks you are using. Paleo did the wonderful thing (see our review here) of having the back of the cards be a “hint” as to what’s on the front of the card. The A1 and A2 on the backs of the cards above …. don’t really mean anything. They SHOULD give you a hint to “how hard” the bad news is, but they really don’t.

Since you are drawing bad news cards without knowing anything, it makes the game feel a little more random. How many Bad News cards should I draw? I don’t know … I don’t hav a sense of how hard each one is!!! I think a “hint” of some kind would make the game feel less random.

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The limited communication rules felt too constraining; they hampered our enjoyment of the game. The best combinations we played in the game where when we could keep the bad news cards from having any effect … and we could only do this if we were more sharing. This game needs an Open Hand rule:

“If you and your friends are comfortable with Open Hand, go ahead and play with all cards showing. Realize that Open Handed may make the game easier, invite analysis paralysis, and/or cause Alpha Players to take over the game.”

Really, this communication limit drop probably dropped by friend’s rating of the game: see below.

Conclusion

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I liked Hacktivity! I enjoyed all the choices in the game: choosing how many good news/bad news cards to choose, the order to resolve the cards (fine-grained Player Selected Turn Order), and the choices per card! All of this really made me feel like I was making choices that mattered as I played.

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I was be remiss if I didn’t include my friend’s opinions: I liked this more than them. I would give this a 7/10, and suggest we play Open Hand. My friend Teresa liked it ok (no rating), but Sara said “I would give it a 4/10: I liked it okay, but there’s a lot better games to play!” I don’t necessarily agree with her, but you may feel as she does. The main issues for Sara were the lack of Hints on the back of the bad new cards and the stifling of cooperation. The limited communication can be counteracted by playing Open Hand, but the lack of hints can make the bad news feel too random and I am not sure what we can do about that.

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I would be happy to teach this to you: I think Hacktivity is a quick and easy game to teach/learn and it promotes a lot of choice.  The solo game was fun and the cooperative game was fun once we added Open Hand.

Shadow of the Colossus Lives Again (in Board Game Form)! A Review of Leviathan Wilds

Leviathan Wilds was on Kickstarter first in July 2022, but then they pulled it down and re-tooled it: they were on again on May 2023 (see Kickstarter link here) and ended funding at a pretty good level at about $208K. This cooperative boss-battler game was on my Top 10 Anticipated Cooperative Games of 2024 and finally delivered to me in early May 2024 (about 2 weeks ago).

This game has a very interesting theme: it’s basically the old PS2 game Shadow Of The Colossus!

The board game plays 1-4 players, but the original PS2 game was a solo game! In the original PS2 game, players have to take down very large creatures by climbing their huge bodies and attacking certain points, all the while with the Colossus attacking them! It’s a very interesting theme!

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In this board game (see sample above), you fight one of 17 Leviathans (you can’t call them Colossus … you wanna get sued?) and win if you can free the Leviathan of its constraints! Leviathan Wilds has a friendlier theme than the original Shadows Of the Colossus: rather than attacking the Leviathan, you are healing the Leviathan by taking out the Binding Crystals. So, when you and your friends cooperatively win … you have freed the Leviathan, rather than killing it!

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Let’s take a look!

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Unboxing and Gameplay

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Players choose a Leviathan to help from the Book of Leviathans

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Each Leviathan is a massive 2-page spread from the book! Sage, above, is the suggested first Leviathan to help.

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Each Leviathan has its own small deck of Threat cards (5) and some story cards.  See the Introduction above.

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The 5 Threat Cards (just below the Leviathan) control what the Leviathan does at the end of the turn(s).   

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Some Threat Cards attack the current player with an area of effect!  

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See above as the area of effect above on the Threat Card (it’s just the orthogonally adjacent to the original site).  If your climber can get out of the area by the time your activation is complete, you can avoid the attack completely!

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At the end of 5 turns, the Threat deck is reshuffled and comes out again.  To escalate the game’s difficulty, each Threat Card has two rotations:  blue and purple, with the blue rotation being the “harder” challenge!  See above!! As the game progresses, more and more of the blue sides are revealed, making the game harder!  

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To win, players cooperatively must take out all the Binding Crystals (represented by dice) at various points around the Leviathan.   See one such Binding Crystal above.  You spend Action Points (or cards) to reduce the value of the die, until it is zero, at which point you remove it!

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There are quite a number of Binding Crystals set-up at the start of the game (purple and blue: purple Binding Points are straight-forward, blue Binding Points have side-effects). See above.

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Each player takes control of one of eight Climbers! These Climbers climb (duh) the Leviathan to take out the Binding Crystals! See the eight different Climbers above and below.

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Each climber has a personality and special unique ability: see above.  Each climber also has a small hand of cards.

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Climbers then choose a Class (one of eight) to play:  See above.  Each class also adds a number of cards to your deck.

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Combined together, the Climber and Class form your personality and your deck! See above as Kestrel the Breaker takes form and becomes a character in the game!

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The deck is what powers your character!  You have three multi-use cards (in hand) every turn that you can use for Actions Points or their Special Abilities!  See above and below.

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Players have a certain number of Action Points per turn, depending on which card they play to start their turn.  Like we said, the cards are all multi-use cards: you can either play them to get Action Points (upper left corner), or as-is to get its effect (bottom of the card).  

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There are basic Actions (see above for a list of actions on your character board) that each cost a number of Action Points.  Some Climbers (like Kestrel) have special Actions only they can perform with their Action Points.

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Every turn, a Threat card comes out, specifying what the Leviathan does.  You may/will take that effect after you activate … sometimes you can avoid the effect completely if you play smartly (by either blocking or moving out of the way).  The player takes his full activation and DOES STUFF: moving around, playing cards, and trying to take out the Binding Points.  Threat cards take effect after the activation, and play moves to the next Climber.  

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Repeat until players take out all Binding Crystals or lose (by dying)!  See above for a winning game with two Climbers!

Cool Things

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The number of cards in your deck represents your grip: if your deck (left) is ever empty, you immediately fall until you hit a platform!  This deck sort of reminds of Gloomhaven, but rather than the deck being your hit points, the deck represents how “well” you are holding on!  It’s a cool ballet in the game, knowing when to rest (to recoup your grip) and when to push ahead (to get stuff done).

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The multi-use cards are quite clever: you HAVE to choose a card to play for its Action Points at the start of your turn, but that means you can’t use the special ability on it!  It’s a very clever way to make players really think about what they want to do with the cards they have!

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The components are pretty top notch in this game.  

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There’s a lot of variety in this game: there are 64 combinations of Climber/Class, each with their own unique deck!  There’s also 17 Leviathans, each with a very different Threat Deck!   Some of the fun in this game is exploring the best combos for the different Leviathans!  I expect to lose many games as I learn some of the later Leviathans … but with loss comes knowledge on how to win!

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It’s also clever that the Threats don’t take effect until AFTER you have activated your turn: this sort of represents the interplay in a Video Game! You see what the Leviathan is about to do, and you can react! Sometimes you can mitigate the effect and sometimes you can’t, but it’s a clever way to that Video Game interplay.

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One other multi-use card thing that’s cool is some cards that you play as Action Points have a “blocking” icon underneath the Action Points!  If you play Hidden Paths above for 4 Actions Points, that also means you can’t lose any “grip” (cards from your deck) during your activation!

So that means you can using the cards for Action Points as well as possible blocking!  That makes the choices even more delicious!   The multi-use cards are just fantastic in this game.

Solo Play: Two Modes

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So, Congratulations on offering an official solo mode!  (Thank you for following Saunders’ Law!)  The official solo mode has the solo player operate two characters with a combined deck.

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The Solo Play is described on page 11 of the rulebook (see above).  

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The solo player chooses two Climber and one Class deck, and  then combines them to form “the solo deck”: both characters use this same deck for their play.  Play alternates between the two Climbers, using that same deck for both characters.  The idea, I think, is to reduce management overhead by only having one deck.

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This is the official solo mode (above).  It is fine. I played and was able to win with the second Leviathan.

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However, I think the better solo mode is simply to take complete control of two Climbers, each with their own deck!  (Like above)! I like the “solo player takes control of two Climbers with separate decks” rule better than the official solo mode.  Why?

  1. The official solo mode has “exceptional” rules you have to remember (only get 7 cards when you rest, both chars fall when the grip runs out, etc).
  2. The solo player with two characters with separate decks is more like the cooperative game; I have to teach my friends this game, so I’d rather just learn the cooperative game as it is!

Basically, the official solo mode has exceptions to the base rules which I have to remember.  I’d much rather just play the game in “normal” mode without any exceptions: it makes it that much easier to teach!

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Both solo modes are very fine and very fun and very playable.  The official solo mode has less management and takes up less space (see above).  The unofficial solo mode with two Climbers and two decks requires operating more cards and takes up more space, but it feels more like the normal game (see below). I personally prefer the latter: play as if it were a 2-Player game, just alternating between the characters.  Decide for yourself! They both work!

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Cooperative Mode

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Cooperative mode works great!  Sara had a chance to watch a rules playthrough earlier, so we were able to jump right in!

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We tended to mostly play our own characters, with a little bit of coordination about which Binding Crystals to go after.   I think each player felt very different: my Climber/Class had a lot of blocking power, and Sara’s never saw a single blocking card!

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Sara also reminded of a rule that tends to evoke more cooperation … you can throw Mushrooms to each other!  The maps have some Mushrooms (see above) scattered about!  And Mushrooms all do good things! You can throw a mushroom to help your compatriot … if you are close enough!  

Generally, this game went over very well ! The theme really impressed by friends, they loved the art, and they loved the quick 60-minute game!

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I think the amount of cooperation depends a little on the Climber/Class pairs you choose. The “Saavy” Climber (see above) tends to be very useful at helping everyone in the game at some point, so playing “Saavy” will elicit more cooperation! “Fix” (above), on the other hand, is just focused on “Hit It Harder”, so he will tend to just do his own thing.

The amount of cooperation will depend on a lot of things: the Climbers, the Classes, the Mushrooms, and the topology of the Leviathan! The game may feel multi-player solitaire in some games, and incredibly cooperative in other games!

Conclusion

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Leviathan Wilds was, luckily, a good game! I was a little nervous about it, because frankly I hadn’t heard too much about it from any other source.  But I think this game is great! It has some really unique ideas that make it feel almost like a video game: deferring Threat activation until after the player finishes, player cards that can be played instantly, multi-use cards, Threat Cards that rotate to get harder (levelling up!), and a Leviathan topology to maneuver!  

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I am a big fan of this game: the official solo mode works well enough (although I prefer the unofficial solo mode), but the cooperative mode works even better.  There’s not too many rules, the game is a short 60 minutes, and yet it feels like this is a deep game with lots of replayability!  The Climber/Class combination system works great for keeping the game interesting! The 17 Leviathans give the players lost of creatures to help!

This is a fun, fun game.  Right now it sits at an 8.5/10 for me, but this could easily go up to a 9 or 9.5. This totally deserved to be on my Top 10 Anticipated Cooperative Games of 2024! It’s a blast!

Set A Watch: Forsaken Isles Review

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I love Set A Watch! The Set A Watch system is a cooperative dice-placement/selection system for 1-4 players and plays pretty quickly in 60 minutes. The original Set A Watch came out in 2019 (see our original review here) from a Kickstarter: see the box cover below.

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Set A Watch: a cooperative fighting game: protect the campfire!

We loved the original Set A Watch so much it made the Top 10 Cooperative Games of 2019 and our Top 10 Cooperative Dice Games! This is a cooperative game we could bring to game groups … and both lighter and harder gamers seemed to like it! See box above.

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Then, the Set A Watch people (Rock Manor Games) had another Kickstarter for Set A Watch: Swords of the Coin. See above. It arrived at my house in 2021 and was in my Top 10 Cooperative Expansions of 2021! Set A Watch: Swords of the Coin is a standalone expansion which you can combine with the original Set A Watch or play by itself! It makes the game slighly more complex (but with slightly more options) by offering a coin system that allows you to buy items! See below.

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Now, what we’re talking about is the latest in this line! Set A Watch: Forsaken Isles is the latest standalone expansion in the Set A Watch world! This was on Kickstarter and our Top 10 Anticipated Cooperative Games of 2024! It arrived at my house very early April 2024 and I was so excited!

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This Kickstarter actually had two things it delivered: the standalone Set A Watch: Forsaken Isles and Set A Watch: Doomed Run.  We hope to talk about Doomed Run in a few weeks: it’s a big campaign!

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Let’s see what comes in the Deluxe Edition of Set A Watch: Forsaken Isles!

Unboxing and Gameplay

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Set A Watch: Forsaken Isles is a pretty small game box: see Coke can above for reference.

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There’s a surprising amount of stuff that fits in the box, considering how small it is!

To be clear, the cover/magnetic clasp of the box is part of the board used in the game.

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This is first and foremost a cooperative dice placement/action selection game: the dice take center stage in this game   The dice are well-labelled and easy to read (especially compared to the first edition where the dice weren’t quite as nice).

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There must always be four characters in play: the players select four from the six above.

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Each character gets 3 dice: which ones?  These are clearly notated on the top of the character! Note that the Golem gets the 3 12-sided dice (see above and below).

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Each character also starts with 3 of the 5 ability cards in play (with 1 starting disabled).  During the game, players can swap out their abilities for different ones.

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Like we said, there must always be 4 characters in play!  See above as each character has their dice and abilities (with the extra abilities in the wings).

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This game has an interesting decision to be made every turn: one player must stay back and watch the fire while the rest of the group ventures out to fight the baddies!  Each character must stay back twice, as indicated by the little camp tokens above (1 for first time, 2 for second time).

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So, one character will do “campfire duty”, stoking the fire, checking the maps and a variety of actions: basically the board serves as the dice placement portion in the campfire phase (see below).

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The rest of the characters go out and fight the line of creatures!

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The dice can be used for their value to straight-up defeat a monster, or a dice can be placed on an ability to invoke it.  See as the Sorceress uses a d8 for Rekindle ability above.

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Note you can only see a few of the monsters in line: it depends on the level of the fire.

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After you (hopefully) defeat all the monsters in line, you travel to the next location!

To win, you need to make it to the final location!  There are 9 locations in total, where the very last location has everyone fighting the final line of monsters!

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Rulebook

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The rulebook is pretty good.

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It gets about a B on the chair test: the font is pretty good sized, and I can see it on the chair next to me, but I have to either hold it open (see above) or I have to bend it back so it stays (see below).

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I don’t love having to break the spine of the rulebook to keep it open: it feels “wrong” to have manually fold so hard!

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In general, this rulebook is pretty good.  They have pictures when needed for set-up and components.

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And I used the back of the rulebook for the Round Overview quite a bit.

Good rulebook, but I should hope so: they’ve had three chances to perfect it!

Other Touches

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There’s a lot of other nice touches in the game: like Set A Watch: Swords of the Coin, players (as a group) can accumulate coin to allow them to buy useful stuff.  Take a look at our review of Set A Watch: Swords of the Coin for more info about the coin/merchant mechanism!  It’s basically the same idea here.

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The new idea in this version of the game is the Doom Tokens: they sound more complicated than they are! If you get 4 Doom Tokens, you really just put stuff into the Horde and bring out Unhallowed a little quicker.  It’s just slightly more fiddly.

Solo Play

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Just like Set A Watch (the original) and Set A Watch: Swords of the Coin, in order to play solo, the solo character must play 4 characters!  See above! (So it does follow Saunders’ Law: there is a viable solo mode)

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I think I was more cautious about the solo game having four characters in my earlier reviews, but after playing through this game for years, I think it is a great way to play.

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Although nominally the game takes 60 minutes to play, I found myself taking 90 – 120 minutes to play solo!  Why? Because each character is complicated and has a complicated set of abilities.  So, if you enjoy thinking a lot, trying to asses the situation with no one breathing down your neck, I think this is a great solo game!  Just be aware that the solo game will probably take 1.5-2x longer to play because there’s so much context switching between characters and abilties.

I think I have really warmed up the solo mode with 4 characters here in Set A Watch. But you have to understand that I have a lot of familiarity with the game after three iterations of it!  I still think the solo mode might be too much for the novice player coming into this … especially since Forsaken Isles is probably the most complex of the three Set A Watch games.

Cooperative Play

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My group played the best way to play this cooperatively: 4 players, each with one character.  Honestly, that’s by the far the best way to play this cooperatively.  Each player plays their own character!! That’s usually the funnest way !

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I will say that 3 players isn’t that bad in this game because one player must always stay behind to tend the fire anyways … that makes it so the three players can all fight the monsters together, each with their own character!  It does “rotate” the characters a little more, but it’s still very doable.

And it’s not  big deal to have two players operate two characters each.  After all, the solo player has to do four characters … what’s two after that???

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There’s many ways this game promotes cooperation:

  • The coin is shared, so player must decide as a group what to buy from the Merchant
  • This game use Player Selected Turn Order (fine grained, see discussion of PSTO here) so that players must work together to discover the best order to use their actions!  “If Teresa goes first, she can take out the baddie at the front of the line! Then I can go!”  These decisions permeate every moment of the game and keep the players talking and engaged
  • Players must decide, every turn, who stays back.  The game forces everyone to stay back twice, so everyone has stay back and mind the fire: who makes the most sense?  That’s an interesting discussion every turn!

Overall, this is a fantastic cooperative game.

Which One?

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There are literally three standalone sets of Set A Watch: if I am interested in the game, which one do I get?  

  • If you are a newer gamer, the original Set A Watch is probably the simplest, as it doesn’t have any of the newer mechanisms (like coin/merchant or doom tokens). 
  • If you are a seasoned gamer, you can’t go wrong with either Swords of the Coin or Forsaken Isles: they both have a more mechanisms in the game (both have the coin/merchant), but nothing too overwhelming.  
  • The latest, Forsaken Isles, is probably the most complex of the lot (because it has the Doom tokens), but honestly, it’s not really that much more.

Honestly, you can’t go wrong with any of them.

Conclusion

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I love Set A Watch, and I am glad to see this new standalone expansion Set A Watch: Forsaken Isles!  It stands alone as a great game, or you can use the monsters and/or characters in here to expand any of your previous Set A Watch games!

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The dice placement mechanism is unique and simple!  It’s easy to explain and tends to suffer less from randomness as the dice can be used for their number or to activate an ability!  Which is better: the number or the ability? You choose!

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Even though I have grown to love the solo mode, I understand that a 4 character solo mode can be very daunting.  Once you embrace it (and double the length of the game), this can be a very satisfying puzzle for the solo player!

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But I think Set A Watch: Forsaken Isles really shines as a 4-Player cooperative game (and to a lesser extent, 2 and 3 player).  The fine-grained Player Selected Turn Order, the decisions when to stay back, and the decisions when to buy all keep the players engaged as they play.

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Set A Watch: Forsaken Isles gets 8.5/10.  I love this game: I’ll play it solo anytime! And I have had great luck with this game in my game groups!  People seem to enjoy the simplicity of the dice placement here.